Andy aka Japandy

In anticipation for my trip, I couldn’t get the 1984 Alphaville hit “Big in Japan” out of my head. However, little did I know how apt it would be for my trip to The Land of the Rising Sun. Within the two weeks of my trip through Japan I found temples, trains, tea houses, restaurants, bars and even boats to be a challenge to my lofty 6’ 3 height. However, no amount of bangs to the head could take away from the magic that Japan brings!

Big In Japan

We started our adventure in Tokyo’s Asakusa (A-sak-sa) district, a mostly traditional part of the city and home to a plethora of small streets crammed with restaurants and bars – all stemming from the Senso-ji Temple. Whilst a good journey away from the lights of Akihabara and Shibuya, it is well connected via subway and boat (yes both of which involved head bumps). Combined with the relaxed pace and quiet temple alleys make it the perfect place to acclimatise into Tokyo and beat the jet lag.

After a slow first day absorbing the sights, sounds and smells of Asakusa, we headed out to the wider city. Most of the day was taken up with site inspections of hotels but as the sun set we found ourselves in the bright lights of Shinjuku ready for one of the craziest hours of my life – A Robot Restaurant. I forewarn everyone of you, that no level of preparation, and no amount of beer can prepare you for what you see in the RR. However, it wouldn’t be Japan without neon lights, automated machines and a general level of craziness… so, with an open mind, the RR is a must (just stick to to beer and avoid the food).

On day 3 a morning visit to the Tsukiji Fish Market was followed by a fresher than fresh sushi brunch of fish caught just hours before. Some more hotel inspections followed, before heading to the Dojo for an afternoon at the Japanese Sumo League.

Now Sumo is something we all associate with Japan but I don’t think any of us can quite picture what a real Sumo tournament is like. As I walked into the Dojo I was blown away by the scale, size and buzz of euphoria from the 11,000 strong crowd. We scaled up the stadia to our lofty seats and with frothy Asahis in hand we picked sides for our upcoming bout. It is another “Only in Japan Moment’ with elaborate silk robed referee’s leering at posturing wrestlers as a crowd of effervescent locals cheer their guy. Without providing too much detail, before every bout you need to question “who will win, the guy in the orange nappy, or the blue?!” After a few hours of shouting till I was hoarse, a dinner of Karaage (fried chicken) was the perfect antidote.

From the brights lights of Tokyo it was a speedy journey south to Kyoto, the former Imperial Capital.

The only way to travel between cities in Japan is via the Shinkansen, or Bullet Train. And I have to admit, it was a childhood dream to travel on one. Safe to say the most enjoyable moment was watching the guards bow as they enter the cabin. Only in Japan!

Kyoto is a welcome peaceful retreat from Tokyo. A never ending maze of temples, shrines and teahouses. Whilst the Golden Temple is stunning, it is crowded, and  the Fushimi Inari Shrine is fascinating, but for me the jewel of the crown in Kyoto are the Geisha’s of Gion. Afternoon tea with a trainee geisha, or maiko, is really a step back into the feudal face of Japan. An absolute must, although for me it involved another bang to the head on a low level door frame.

It was a really early start, I grabbed a latte and a curry doughnut (trust me, so wrong, but so right!!!) and boarded the Shinkansen train for my two hour journey south to Hiroshima. Just out of the city is the island of Miyajima, a tranquil haven known for its temples, wandering deer, and smoked oysters. Perfect for a morning stroll.

The afternoon took us back to the mainland for the sombre afternoon in Hiroshima. The preserved atomic dome sits peacefully amongst the skyscrapers of the modern city. The Peace Museum provides a glimpse into the disaster that befell Hiroshima at the end of WW2. A hard day emotionally, but one I wouldn’t miss.

Heading north from Kyoto; (with more Curry Doughnuts in tow) took me to Kanazawa- Japan’s garden city. It goes without saying, that the show stopper of Kanazawa is the Ken-Ruoken Gardens, enshrined as Japan’s prettiest gardens. The city is also famed for its production of gold leaf, and as you walk through the old Samurai district you’ll be sorry if you miss out on a gold leaf covered ice cream. Kanazawa is however the anti-city of Japan. Whilst still a city of near 500,000 people, Kanazawa is a tranquil haven and a few days strolling through the gardens, castles and teahouses is the perfect antidote to the heady heights of Tokyo and Osaka.

Finally my journey took me to Matsumoto, home of “The Crow”, one of Japan’s finest preserved castles. The visit to Matsumoto was marked by a stay at the Kai, the finest ryokan hotel in the region.

One thing that must be said about Japan is that I have great respect for a country where enjoying an 8 course tasting menu in a dressing gown is considered high class. After my tasting menu which included Sakura Cherry Blossom Dumplings, Nagano Red Wine Shabu Shabu and Hand Pulled Soba Noodles. I wound down with a classical music concert before retiring to my room for a shiatsu massage. I don’t think I can recall my head hitting the pillow of my plush futon. And safe to say it was one of the deepest sleeps of my life.

My morning started with a soak in the private onsen on my balcony and a traditional Japanese breakfast of grilled fish, pickles and rice porridge. Sadly I said goodbye to the Kai and proceeded to get my train back to Tokyo for one more glimpse of the bright lights before being whisked back to the realities of London.

Japan was the number one destination on my bucket list for years and after spending 12 days in the Land of the Rising Sun I fail to pull out one stand out moment.  From the insane levels of politeness the Japanese exude, delicious food from fried treats to delicate Michelin meals and the constant smash of tradition and future (which always blend perfectly), I was in constant awe and Japan promises to deliver on some of the best experiences you can gain from a holiday whether it is couples, families, sports enthusiasts or even train spotters, there is something for everyone and I promise this isn’t the concussion talking.

 

Nici@travelwiseuk.com

Sakura Season in Japan