“You’ve been here for six months” Nici told me, “you need to take a holiday.”
It is the typical travel agent issue that when I spend all day booking trips for others, I can go months without planning anything for myself and even then, it’s last minute. So, it was on this random rainy Wednesday that I happened to be looking for a
tour for a client when I came across my first holiday of the year.
There on the computer monitor was a beautiful photograph of the Treasury of Petra along with photos of happy looking Brits with their trekking poles. Within the day I was booked on an 8-day trek through Jordan with Intrepid Travel. In all my years of travelling, I have zip-lined, rode on camels, horses and via monster trucks and ATV’s but had never trekked before in my life. I had images of Lawrence of Arabia or Rachel Weisz in The Mummy however I had the distinct feeling I would more resemble a Bridget Jones version of the latter. The bumf received said that you needed a moderate fitness level to take part, and I would class myself somewhere between Oliver Reed and Eddie the Eagle. Nevertheless I went to my weekly kickboxing class and walked to work….twice (in my defence, it is uphill!).
I did manage to make it to an outfitter to kit myself out with a pair of (ludicrously expensive) trekking boots, some padded socks, blister plasters and a fancy looking water bottle. I felt pretty proud of myself and so with minimal trepidation I set off for the airport. The plan was to arrive in Amman the day before to have a lie in, see the city and get an early night before the hard work began.
Being half Tunisian and having spent a year living in Morocco and five years in Egypt, I’m comfortable in Muslim countries however despite looking like a local, I was ready to encounter the usual hassle in an Arab city. My experience of Amman couldn’t have been more different and on my first day before meeting the group I wandered happily through the streets of the capital enjoying the sights and sounds of the city.
In the City Centre lies the historic Citadel so I took the map provided by the reception of the Art Hotel and promptly got lost in the warren of streets looping around the ancient sights. Looking around me I pondered that little would have changed since Medieval times and felt instantly at home. I again felt no apprehension and sought directions from the friendly locals in a mixture of my broken Arabic and sign language until I eventually reached the Citadel.
Seen as one of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the world, the Citadel contains evidence of occupation dating back to Neolithic times. Most of the buildings remaining date from the Roman and Byzantine era and it contains the Roman Temple of Hercules as well as the adjacent amphitheatre. Guides are readily available at the entrance as are taxis to get you back to your hotel.
Amman is a bustling, vibrant and liberal city with tourists readily welcomed on the streets. The population in recent times has increased by almost 2 million with refugees from Iraq and Syria. They have been met with open arms and are equals within the community.
That evening I met with my fellow trekkers who were a mix of nationalities and ages and we instantly bonded over dinner in the medina. Alcohol is readily available in Jordan with Rainbow Street in Amman offering rooftop bars and live music venues.
Day one saw us heading over to the Dead Sea region for our first big hike which would take us from Mukkawir, the site of the ancient Citadel of Herod the Great where Salome performed the dance of the seven veils and where John the Baptiste was purported to have been executed.
The walk offered spectacular views of the glistening Dead Sea as well as Jerusalem and Jericho on the West Bank.
I did have moments on the 16 km downhill trek when I wondered “who does this?!” but spurred on by my fellow trekkers and by the thought of wine at the end, I put one foot in front of the other until we reached the lowest point on Earth.
Our guide Usama was full of knowledge and took the history of Jordan right back to Biblical times when Amman was called Philadelphia and Jesus was baptised in the River Jordan.
Day three brought the moment we had all been waiting for; our first glimpse of Petra. The entrance to the old Nabotean City was part of a well-worn ancient trade route and you can see how it stayed lost for centuries. Accessed via a mile long “Siq” the entrance leaves you shaded by towering rocks on either side. As you emerge back into daylight you are afforded your first view of the iconic Treasury.
The Treasury we found out was named that by the Bedouins who initially found the city and thought the grandest building must hide treasure, it is in fact thought to be a tomb.
Even if you visit as part of a more leisurely trip, you will find a certain amount of walking is needed to truly explore this city.
In the evening you have the option of a visit to Petra by night with a candle lit musical experience in front of the Treasury. After the show retire to ‘The Cave’, a bar created in a 2,000-year-old tomb where you can enjoy an ice-cold beer or some local wine (actually pretty good).
Our second day in Petra was one of our longer treks beginning in ‘Little Petra’ and taking the back route to The Monastery, arguably more impressive than the Treasury and used as a temple by the Christians in the Byzantium Period.
Day five of the tour led us to Wadi Rum home to desert camps, Bedouins and the Lawrence of Arabia experience many crave. After a walk through this Martian-like environment, the group then settled in for a refreshing mint tea before a spectacular sunset over the desert. The evening was spent spotting the local coyotes and singing Arabic songs by the campfire.
Day 6 offered more opportunities to wander the Wadi and explore the many ancient cave paintings. The area is still home to several Bedouin tribes, many of whom have set up their own desert camps. As you climb sand dunes and enjoy the stunning surrounds, you will encounter free-roaming sheep and camels who will stop by and say hello.
The last day it was back to Madaba for a final dinner with my fellow travellers and Usama.I think after such an amazing experience, the only regret I have is that I didn’t `extend my stay by a couple more nights to rest my weary bones by the Red Sea at Aqaba or return to the Dead Sea for some much needed R&R.
A dip in the Dead Sea was a fantastic reward at the end of a day trekking in high temperatures. Many resorts have popped up on the banks and now you can enjoy a cocktail in luxury whilst enjoying a spectacular sunset.
Have a look at a more luxurious trip to Jordan